How to Interpret a Harley VIN Number

If it looks like a Harley, checking the VIN is a way to make sure..

Since its founding in 1903 Harley-Davidson motorcycles have established an image of mystique and lore; bold revving engines, leather-clad bikers in sunglasses and chrome engines glistening in the sun. Beyond the surface however, Harley-Davidson is known for maintaining a high standard of quality for all its products. The vehicle identification number (VIN) on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle is not only an important part of registering legal ownership but also a way of verifying that the engine and frame are genuine Harley-Davidson items.

Difficulty:

Easy

Instructions

Before 1970

• 1

  Locate the VIN. For bikes manufactured up to 1969, the identification is found on the left side of the engine case. There is no number on the frame.

• 2

  Read the first two digits. This is the model year.

  For example: 59FLH1234, is the year 1959.

• 3

  Read the letters. The VIN on a Harley will have up to four of them. The letters represent the model.

• 4

  Read the last four numbers. This number is the production number of the bike.

1970 - 1980

• 1

  Locate the VIN. Beginning in 1970 Harley-Davidson began stamping the number on both the engine and the frame, with the exception of those bikes dating 1979. The number for legal registration is on the frame.

• 2

  Read the first two digits. This is the model code.

  For example: 2C12345H5, the model code would be 2C.

• 3

  Read the next five numbers. This group of five numbers is the production number.

• 4

  Read the last two digits. These two digits stand for the last two digits of the model year with "H" meaning "7" and the last digit matching that of the year.

1981 - present

• 1

  Locate the VIN. The number on the frame is 17 digits long, while that on the engine is abbreviated. The number necessary for legal registration is on the frame.

• 2

  Read the first number of the VIN on the frame. This indicates the country of origin code. A "1" means the bike was made in the United States.

  For example: 1HD4BFH1XNY123456

• 3

  Read the following two letters. "HD" means the bike is a genuine Harley-Davidson.

• 4

  Read the next number. This is the weight class for the bike.

• 5

  Read the two letters. These designate the model code.

• 6

  Read the next single letter. This is the engine model code.

• 7

  Read the following number. This is the introduction date.

• 8

  Read the next letter. This is the check digit.

• 9

  Read the next letter. This is the model year code.

• 10

  Read the next letter (the last letter of the sequence). This is the location of manufacture code.

• 11

  Read the last six numbers. This is the bike's serial number

How to Replace the Headlights on a Harley Road Glide

A couple of dressed classics front this line of Harley-Davidson motorcycles.

The Road Glide was intended by the manufacturer to be a flagship model for the fleet of Harley-Davidson motorcycles. With its impressive fairing and dual headlights, it certainly looks the part. Changing the headlights when they burn out, however, can be a daunting task. It is necessary to remove the outer fairing and work on the inside of it in order to change the bulbs. This task is best accomplished in a garage with a clean work bench. The length of time it takes to complete this task is between 30 and 60 minutes.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Cross-tip screwdriver
• 10mm wrench
• Torx wrench set
• New headlight bulbs

1. Remove the Seat

   • 1

     Unscrew the back fastener on the rear of the seat with a cross-tip screwdriver to free the seat.

   • 2

     Move the seat toward the rear of the bike and lift it free of the chassis. Set the seat aside.

   • 3

     Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery using a 10mm open-ended wrench. The battery is under the seat.

   Remove the Outer Fairing

   • 1

     Loosen and remove the seven screws that secure the outer fairing, using a Torx-head driver. These screws are located around the inner fairing at the windshield, the radio speakers, and the handlebar triple-trees.

   • 2

     Lean the outer fairing forward while carefully holding it. Reach inside the fairing and disconnect the wire connectors that attach this outer fairing to the rest of the bike.

   • 3

     Move the fairing to a clean workbench.

   Change the Headlights

   • 1

     Pull the wire harness located at the back of each headlight. Pull the harness gently by hand.

   • 2

     Loosen and remove the plastic retaining rings on each headlight by turning them counterclockwise by hand. Pull out the old bulbs and discard them.

   • 3

     Insert new bulbs into their position with the larger tab on their back plates pointing toward the top of the fairing. Screw the plastic retaining rings back onto the bulbs and reconnect the bulb wiring harnesses.

   • 4

     Take the outer fairing back to the motorcycle for reinstallation. Close the job out in reverse order, installing the fairing, then the battery terminal, then the seat.

Tips & Warnings

• Keep interruptions to a minimum when performing this task and keep a close eye on the outer fairing when you are working on it to avoid scratches and dings.

• Remove all watches and rings when working around motorcycle batteries.

How to Troubleshoot an Alternator on a Harley

That little black box in front of your engine can cause you some big problems.

A Harley-Davidson motorcycle will give you hours of riding pleasure for years on end. But when the battery goes dead and it won't start, it can have you cursing very quickly. Replacing the battery won't help at all if you have problems with your charging system, so a few tests are needed in order to determine what is causing the problem. Although these tests may be beyond the ability of some do-it-yourself mechanics, if you have moderate skills and own or can borrow the proper tools, you can save yourself some money and may even be able to fix the problem on your own.

Difficulty:

Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Digital multimeter
• Alligator clip test leads

1. • 1

     Remove the motorcycle seat from the bike's frame. Open the battery compartment or remove the outer enclosure.

   • 2

     Set your multimeter's function to DC volts in the 25-volt range if it is not an auto-ranging meter. Connect the red test lead to the positive (red) terminal of the battery. Connect the black test lead to the ground (black) battery terminal. Observe the reading. A fully charged battery should read between 12.5 and 13.2 volts. Charge the battery, if necessary, to bring the reading up to specifications.

   • 3

     Start the bike and smoothly rev the engine up to around 2,500 RPM. If your Harley doesn't have a tachometer, you'll have to approximate this, being careful not to over-rev the engine. With the engine at steady RPM, observe the multimeter reading. It should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts if the charging system is okay. If it still shows only resting battery voltage or less, you will need to test the alternator output.

   • 4

     Locate the alternator output wires on your Harley's engine. These wires generally extend out of the front of the engine case on the left side, behind the frame tubes. Trace the wires until you locate the connector that links them to the voltage regulator, which is bolted to the frame tubes behind the front wheel. Unplug the connector.

   • 5

     Set your multimeter on the "Resistance" or "Ohms" function. Probe each of the pins in the alternator side of the connector separately. You should again see a very low (less than 1 ohm) resistance reading. If you get a higher resistance on any pin (several ohms), you may have a bad winding. If the reading is extremely high or shows an open circuit (infinity) reading, that winding is definitely bad. If you get good readings on the stator windings, proceed to the next step.

   • 6

     Connect the probes across the pins and change the meter's function to AC Volts. Start the engine and note the reading. You should see between 15 to 25 volts at idle speed. Open the throttle a little to increase the RPM. The readings should rise steadily as the RPM increases. If it doesn't, then you likely have a short in the stator windings. If the alternator passes all the tests, the problem is most likely in the voltage regulator.

Tips & Warnings

• A digital multimeter is required because of its ease of use, and the readings are much easier for the average person to interpret. An analog multimeter can be used if you are well-versed in its operation.

• A small pocket screwdriver can be helpful in separating some types of electrical connectors. Use caution to avoid breaking off the latches that hold them snugly together.

• Modern voltage regulators are solid-state designs, with no serviceable components inside. If your tests indicate a bad regulator, then the entire unit must be replaced. This is a simple bolt-on installation and is well within the abilities of the average home mechanic.

• The battery must be fully charged before any testing is performed. Be sure to charge any battery showing between 11.5 and 12 resting volts or less before proceeding with the tests. Use only a charger designed specifically for motorcycle battery use. Using a high-amperage charger can destroy your battery.

• Unlike the voltage regulator, the alternator on your Harley requires the use of specialty tools in order to service it. It is therefore highly recommended that you let an authorized Harley-Davidson dealer or a well-equipped independent motorcycle repair shop perform any alternator work that may be indicated by the tests.

How to Oil a Harley-Davidson

Change your Harley's oil frequently to ensure the bike is always ready to ride.

A Harley-Davidson motorcycle can be ridden almost indefinitely when cared for properly. Although completely maintaining your Harley will involve a broad spectrum of procedures, periodically changing the oil is one of the most vital tasks that contribute to your motorcycle's overall health. Under normal circumstances, the oil within your Harley's motor, transmission and primary chaincase assembly should be changed in 2,500-mile increments. However, extended riding sessions may degrade the oil supply much sooner. The entire process is fairly straightforward and shouldn't take longer than one and a half hours to complete.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• 5/8-inch socket
• Socket wrench
• Oil pan
• Torque wrench
• Strap wrench
• Oil filter
• 20W50 motor oil, 3 qts.
• 85w140 gear oil or Harley-Davidson transmission oil, 1 qt.
• Torx T-27 screwdriver
• 5W30 motor oil or Harley-Davidson primary oil, 1 qt.

1. Motor Oil

   • 1

     Locate your Harley-Davidson's motor oil drain plug. Softail models place their drain plugs along the cross-member on the bottom of their frames, while Touring models place their drain plugs beneath the transmission, behind the motor. Alternatively, Sportster models use a drain hose that is plugged into the bottom of the left frame rail.

   • 2

     Remove the drain plug from your Harley-Davidson, using a 5/8-inch socket and a socket wrench. Allow the motor's oil supply to drain into an oil pan until the flow is reduced to a slight trickle.

   • 3

     Clean the drain plug with a shop towel, then screw it into place with your 5/8-inch socket. Tighten the drain plug to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

   • 4

     Unscrew the oil filter from the front of the motor with a strap wrench, then discard it. Remove the packaging from your new oil filter, then fill it with fresh 20W50 motor oil. Rub a small amount of oil along the filter's sealing O-ring with your finger.

   • 5

     Screw the new oil filter into place by hand until it is seated gently against the motor. Tighten the oil filter an extra quarter-turn by hand.

   • 6

     Fill your Harley-Davidson's oil tank with 3 qts. of 20W50 motor oil, using a funnel.

   Transmission Oil

   • 1

     Locate the transmission's drain plug along the bottom of the transmission housing. Unscrew the drain plug with a 5/8-inch socket and a socket wrench. Allow the transmission oil to drain into an oil pan until it reduces to a trickle.

   • 2

     Clean the transmission drain plug with a shop towel, then screw it into place with your 5/8-inch socket. Tighten the drain plug to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

   • 3

     Fill the transmission with 1 qt. of 85w140 gear oil or Harley-Davidson transmission oil, using a funnel.

   Primary Fluid

   • 1

     Unscrew the bolts from the round clutch inspection cover on the primary chaincase on the left side of the motor, using a Torx T-27 screwdriver. Pull the cover and its gasket away from the primary chaincase.

   • 2

     Unscrew the small drain bolt directly below the clutch inspection cover's port with a Torx T-27 screwdriver to drain the fluid from the primary chaincase into an oil pan.

   • 3

     Clean the the drain bolt with a shop rag, then screw it into place with your Torx T-27 screwdriver once the flow of the primary fluid has reduced to a trickle. Tighten the drain bolt to 16 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

   • 4

     Pour 1 qt. of 5W30 motor oil or Harley-Davidson primary oil directly into the primary chaincase through the clutch inspection port.

   • 5

     Reinstall the clutch inspection cover and its gasket onto the primary chaincase. Screw the cover's bolts into place with your Torx T-27 screwdriver. Tighten the bolts to 10 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, alternating between bolts in a criss-cross pattern.

Tips & Warnings

• Warm your Harley-Davidson up to its normal operating temperature before beginning to ensure a quick and complete drain of the motorcycle's fluids. Once warm, allow the motorcycle to cool for another 10 minutes to avoid burning yourself with the heated oils.

How to Remove Stock Harley Baffles

When most people think of Harley-Davidson motorcycles, the first thing they recall is the deep, often loud exhaust note of a big cruising bike. The loud exhaust has become a staple of motorcycle culture because it acts as a safety buffer. A loud bike ensures that drivers and other riders know you are around, preventing accidents that even the stock horn on most motorcycles would not help. Make your bike louder and safer by removing the stock baffles at home.

Difficulty:

Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Bike lift (optional)
• Basic tool set
• Hand-held drill
• Drill extension
• 3/8-inch metal cutting drill bit
• Vise
• Rubber mallet

1. • 1

     Set your motorcycle on its kickstand or center stand so that it will not fall over or tip while you are working. If you have a motorcycle lift, put your Harley on the lift to access the necessary bolts more easily.

   • 2

     Examine how the exhaust pipes are attached to your motorcycle by consulting the owner's manual. Most bikes will have two nuts holding each pipe at the cylinder and mounts that hold the exhaust onto the frame.

   • 3

     Remove the bolts that hold the exhaust to the motorcycle using a socket or combination wrench. Separate the entire exhaust from the bike to avoid drilling near important running parts.

   • 4

     Clamp the exhaust in a vise. Cover the vise in rags or towels to protect the chrome finish of the pipes. Attach a 3/4-inch metal cutting drill bit to your hand-held drill and drill through the first two baffles inside the tip of the exhaust.

   • 5

     Take the exhaust pipes out of the vise. Tap the end of the mufflers with a rubber mallet to knock out any remaining pieces of baffle.

   • 6

     Reinstall the exhaust on the bike using the mounts removed earlier. Refer to your owner's manual for torque specifications. Be careful not to over-tighten the crankcase exhaust mounting bolts as they are expensive and difficult to replace.

   • 7

     Start the bike and listen for a difference in tone. If all goes well, the motorcycle should sound louder and fuller, especially when revved.

How to Make Harley Baffles Louder

Most riders call it "that Harley sound": the loud, rumbling exhaust that lets you know there is a Harley-Davidson motorcycle around. The stock pipes that come on a Harley are designed to meet federal EPA standards and don't deliver the sound most riders want. Replacing the stock exhaust can be expensive. You can create the sound if you make the Harley baffles louder. Baffles are the packing inside the rear of a motorcycle exhaust pipe that filters and dampens the noise.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Flat-head screwdriver
• Drill
• 1-inch metal drill bit

1. • 1

     Park your Harley on a level surface. If you have ridden it recently, let it sit until the exhaust pipes are cool to the touch.

   • 2

     Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the end caps out of the exhaust pipes. The end caps are metal caps with a hole in the center that have been machine-pressed in to the ends. Insert your screwdriver into the center hole, and pry against the edge of the pipe until it pops free. You will then see the metal screed that covers the baffle.

   • 3

     Drill a hole through the center of the baffle. Use a drill with a metal bit that is 1 inch in diameter. Press the tip against the screen of the baffle, and press the drill into it while running it at a slow and steady speed. Push the drill into the baffle the entire length of the bit. This will place a direct hole through the screens and packing of the baffle and open it.

Tips & Warnings

• To prevent scratching the finish on the pipes when removing the end caps, drape a hand towel over the end of the pipe so that it is between the chrome of the pipe and the metal of your screwdriver when you pry the end cap out.

• Experts estimate that loud pipes, or pipes that have had the baffles modified, decrease the power of the engine 5 to 10 percent. Adjusting the carburetor to compensate for an open baffle will increase your horsepower, which will not return the actual lost performance power of the engine. The Harley sound you love is actually an indication of an engine that cannot operate at peak performance and will eventually sustain internal damage from the strain.

How to Replace a Harley Throttle Cable

Harleys with carbureted engines utilize a dual push-pull system for their throttles.

Harley-Davidson motorcycles with carbureted engines utilize a dual push-pull system for their throttles. One throttle cable pulls the throttle cable bracket to provide acceleration, while the other cable helps to push the bracket back into place. Harley recommends replacing both of these cables should one of them become broken or excessively worn. The length of time to complete this replacement should be between 45 minutes and an hour, depending on your skill level.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Cross-tip screwdriver
• New throttle cables
• SAE wrench set

1. Removing the Cable

   • 1

     Remove the two screws securing the handle bar housing with a cross-tip screwdriver. Separate the housing components.

   • 2

     Disconnect the two throttle cable ferrules from the throttle grip. Pull the cables out of the housing.

   • 3

     Pull both throttle cables out of the throttle bracket on the carburetor. Withdraw the cables from the engine area, observing their correct installation position as you do so.

   Installing the Cable

   • 1

     Insert two new throttle cables into correct position through the engine area.

   • 2

     Connect the two cables to the throttle cable bracket on the carburetor. On the opposite ends, insert both cables through the handlebar housing. Insert the metallic ferrules into the ends of the cables and connect them to the throttle.

   • 3

     Reconnect the housing components together and secure with their screws.

   • 4

     Adjust the throttle cable adjuster nut with a wrench with the throttle wide open, making sure the throttle cam touches the cam stop. Release the throttle.

   • 5

     Adjust the idle cable adjuster nut with a wrench, making sure the cable housing touches the spring located on the throttle cable bracket of the carburetor.